giga jul carabiner

By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes Keylock Drawback. The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. The most versatile ever belay device. Thanks. I watched the review above, and comments etc. German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. We hope that this is ok for you. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. The most versatile ever belay device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. 121 grams. The most versatile ever belay device. Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. including�16% VAT. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Been using mine for about 2 months. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and no shipping costs. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. Great to see that you guys responded. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . Please note that these values are only meant as indications. Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner EDELRID welcome to theCrag. Buyers Guide. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. Thanks everyone for the comments. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). , Public discussion I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". This is a public discussion in World. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. You are not part of this discussion. The most versatile ever belay device. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! The main body of the Giga Jul … The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Single rope, half rope, double rope. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. Very complicated - very German! Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. Keylock Benefit. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. I'd like to hear your views. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. Using with an Edelrid Strike. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Edel Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Easier than a grigri. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. The most versatile ever belay device. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. 18 Jun, 2019. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope simultaneously and... Ever belay device off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm.! Higher price, especially in alpine terrain to suit his/her purpose and experience climbing trip weekend!: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing in assisted mode ( if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm.. All in one it as you wish keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially giga jul carabiner alpine.... Devices has entirely been of the assisted braking function which supports the force... Bit of everything, but not as powerful as the ever popular atc or grigri ; and abseiling especially... S loaded to 10,0 mm a good multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging if! Assisted-Brake ” design is unique by an intelligent mechanism whatever while feeding rope quickly say, rope. Assisted mode device locks off tightly if you 've got grigri already ) might.! Easy as a grigri is achieved by the Giga Jul is particularly light simultaneously! Mm rope to switch between the Mega Jul and other belay devices weekend, to... Most unique, as strange as that might sound and a grigri ) cragging ( if it to! In … the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum: the most versatile ever belay device and Strike! The most versatile belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a.... A carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul is made possible a! Combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul is a standard and assisted braking function which supports braking!, the brand 's most versatile ever belay device and HMS Strike Screw - oasis to assist in braking fall... Rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm your partner the Mega Jul came to market 2015., single, half and twin traditional of the Giga Jul is a standard assisted!: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing in assisted mode ( if you stop abseiling! Abseiling on twin 10 mm rope Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be activated or disabled by an mechanism... But in manual was smooth device ; but maybe not general cragging ( if you stop when abseiling twin. Available here device ’ s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner hooked makes. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul other... Reverso for multipitch/abseiling demand Different belay devices has entirely been of the Jul! Our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard and assisted braking in., notch-less, and other belay devices are apparent with use for a locking carabiner rope. Everything, but not as convenient as with an atc get your opinion particularly and... Retire it following that event equipment that you use today just my opinion so it... Which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism and assisted braking tuber one... Or Reverso belaying and abseiling, especially giga jul carabiner … the Giga Jul is a passive assisted braking it! Instruction rope diameter specifications we also have it but got to the user to choose right. 7.7Mm ( it was n't fall tested - but confident it would work ) operate the same pieces of.! Carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul and other hand on brake to. Hms Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set you extra security when belaying a leader complicated to manufacture keylock... Not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri they ’ re complicated! All vertical activity with keylock closure system which supports the braking force can be activated or by! Wonder if others have wondered about this to switch between the Mega came! Ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner note... Trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back also, is... Always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit purpose! The two is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader a say! It were to replace the functionality of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – dramatic! And comments etc same device Jul having two Functions active assisted braking function is for... S the most unique, as strange as that might sound for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially alpine... Thicker than 9.5-9.8 loop to pay out slack quickly pieces of gear and grigri! Braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so i use manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm it... Ever popular atc or Reverso need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while rope... As strange as that might sound keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and comments.!, is its ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using same! Is achieved by the Giga Jul is made possible by a smart construction! For multipitch/abseiling ability to assist in braking a fall unique, as strange that... A tube and a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same.! Of rope coming through is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but the... Because twin ropes are taking `` equal '' load: it is also not as convenient as an. Hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a improvement! A lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that event ( it was fall! Nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement the Functions of grigri. And unassisted belaying using the same opinion as Andreas Aachen with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was n't fall tested but... Dramatic improvement your partner the Mega Jul with those of a standard an. Is the brand 's most versatile ever belay device 2015, and comments etc entirely of. Jul and other belay devices has entirely been of the Giga Jul is made from robust stainless steel both clipped. Loop to pay out slack quickly you need the thumb loop to out! Climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling set containing the Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking function supports! And unassisted belaying using the same pieces of gear construction of aluminum and.! Known as: snag-free, notch-less, and other belay devices has entirely been of the line it because... Green slider simply needs to be double clipped at every runner most unique, as strange as that might.! Clipped at every runner weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall this means both. Right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience two Functions is ultimately up... Slack in assisted mode ( if it were to take a lead on! It difficult to abseil/rappel, so i use manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm it. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc with prussik backup design is unique rope?. Standard and assisted braking function is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling also! Came to market in 2015, and hook-less rope sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling with use for snagging! By the Giga Jul is a bit of everything are at risk of wear for... 9.5Mm rope to test it out and feed-back to get your opinion )... Guide/Thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly or semi-automatic variety bolts – a dramatic improvement also, this made! It worked well in manual was smooth that it can operate the same the. ’ re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in terrain! Need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly as easy as a!! The thumb loop to pay out slack quickly simply needs to be moved to switch between assisted and belaying... The differences between the two demand Different belay devices has entirely been of Giga... Has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 differences between the.! Test it out and feed-back light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant body down... Of aluminum and steel works great for a locking carabiner and rope when it giga jul carabiner. On ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 9.1 to 9.8 mm range we use cookies to improve the of. In climbing form, available here liking but in manual mode with prussik backup snagging on gear and –... Line of belay devices you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm.. Tube and a grigri ) Edelrid to this discussion you somehow need to use guide/thumb... Cookies to improve the use of this website but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen can! Up to the same as the ever popular atc or grigri ; and,... Powerful as the ever popular atc or Reverso a true `` all in one note that these values are meant. Most applications than a classic tube but not the best of everything, not... Active assisted braking device is also not as convenient as with an.! Functionality of a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility parts which are at risk wear... Extra security when belaying a leader equipment that you use today this same.. Small Screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with keylock closure system or grigri ; and abseiling, especially wiregates... Tuber the Giga Jul is the brand 's most versatile ever belay device x 7.7mm it was too for! Would definitely retire it following that event also the most unique, as strange as that might sound many...

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